Wednesday, March 4, 2015

"I think it's always an evolution," said Lubov Azria, backstage at the BCBGMAXAZRIA RUNWAY show a few weeks ago in New York. Although these few words seemed completely obvious and free of interest to the attentive and yes, selective ear of an overwhelmed writer (read her, myself!) at the time, when the show began I started to analyse what her statement and what it actually meant... An evolution; not only from the previous collections with which the international brand graced the runways for the past decade, but also an evolution among this very collection, from the first to the final look ! Visually, a feast of embroideries, textures and prints adorned the surfaces of tunic dresses who, eventually went away to make room for a variety of voluminous outerwear and layering separates; a decisive emphasis on sportswear. Starting with a light palette of creams, browns and other mixed neutrals that transitioned with a perfect timing to brighter colours; pops of plum, oxblood and cognac, more vibrant tones that Lubov attributed to her recent travels. 

Now, you all know me, on the subject of travel I was all eyes and all ears… For Fall 2015, BCBGMAXAZRIA RUNWAY journeyed north from the vibrant city of Barcelona to the shores of the Baltic Sea: "We went to Barcelona for a trip and I was so inspired by the culture," Azria said. "And then we went north to the Baltic Sea like Latvia and all those countries. What I realized is you have these little traditional stores that have this hand-beaded embroidery and then you have this younger generation and they don't want to have anything to do with it." On the other hand, Lubov did and so, she made her way to reconcile effortless streetwear with bohemian undertones. The collection therfore underlines our muse’s independent spirit and irresistible sense of adventure !

Remember the sneak peek of the collection's influences I got to share with you the day before the show ? Ingénue. And the irony here is that the brand was actually super candid about the importance of this softer trend among the whole collection. I could definitely see how FW15 at BCBG was ingénue but it definitely didn't set the tone for the collection to me. I noted a stronger 70's inspiration feel which could have been sort of déjà-vu since it has already been stated that the 70's were coming back, but instead, BCBGMAXAZRIA defied the way this trend announced itself at first sight by designing and putting together pieces that were able to transcend seasonal outfitting ! The mix of cities like Los Angeles bohemian spirit, mixed with the practicality and strength of the New York City woman gave the collection an incredible depth. Another strong point of the collection was in the footwear, as I had mentioned myself on Instagram during the show; supple over-the-knee boots and fur-accented booties add an unexpected toughness with a modern edge to the collection and really contributed to polish up the whole line, making-it nothing else than totally Fall appropriate, if like myself you happen to live in Northern regions ;)

Photo credits:  Billy Farrell Agency ©

The post BCBGMAXAZRIA RUNWAY FW15 appeared first on PBTH **

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